a los 3 tarados en el vivid...a que te refieres??? (supongo que diras algo distinto a la regulacion con los topes de goma), es un amortiguador que no estoy muy puesto, ya que solo lo ha llevado alguno del equipo, y no ha habido que tocarle, pero la sensacion que da de serie, si lleva menos carga hidraulica.
Pues tendras que probar uno mejor, porque si algo tiene el vivid es varga hidraulica. Hay 3 tarados dependiendo de la bici, igual que los bos, CC, y elka que te los hacen "a medida", pues cuando lo compras puedes pedir A B o C, siendo este ultimo el que mas carga hidraulica tiene, para una 224 por ejemplo, para una judge o morewood pues le valdria el A o el B. me explico?
Aqui dejo información muy buena y técnica (review no comercial) hablando del RC4 y dando información también de CCDB, Vivid, Bos, DHX5. The DHX RC4 is fairly close to new from the ground up from its predecessor, the DHX 5.0. The shock barrel on the RC4 is the same size as the DHX 5.0 (referred to from now on as just the DHX) and it uses the same springs, but where the old DHX had a Propedal adjuster that did pretty much the same thing as adjusting the air pressure (close enough that dyno testing couldnt show any difference between adjusting Propedal and adjusting air pressure), the new RC4 has separate high and low speed compression adjusters. These are, unlike the old Propedal adjustment, apparently completely separate from the position-sensitive Boost Valve, which still gives the RC4 adjustable bottom-out resistance in the same way as the old DHX. The DHX RC4 - the 4 is actually French for "four". Due to the air pressure in the shock affecting the compression damping, there is in fact some significant overlap between the high/low speed compression adjusters and the air pressure adjustment without dyno testing, its impossible to know exactly what the overlap is, but if its anything like the old DHX then increasing the air pressure would affect the entire range of compression damping. As a result, we decided it would be simplest to set an air pressure more or less arbitrarily, then use the LSC/HSC/bottom out adjusters separately to reduce the number of variables that would be affected by adjusting the air pressure directly. We set the air pressure to 150psi (the range specified by Fox is 125-200psi) then went about setting the shock up to my liking. I have typically run 350lbs/in springs in the past, on Cane Creek Double Barrel and BOS Stoy shocks, with good results on the Cane Creek, I was running approximately 38% sag with this spring. However, when we mounted the 350lbs/in spring to the RC4, I was only getting 30% sag, and even dropping to a 300lbs/in spring only netted about 35% sag. This appears to be due to the huge shaft size on the RC4 the 5/8 (15.875mm) diameter shaft has about 56% more surface area than a standard ½ (12.7mm) diameter shaft as found in an old DHX, Vivid or a BOS. The Cane Creek only runs on an 8mm diameter shaft, and is claimed to run very low reservoir pressures due to its design making it impossible for cavitation to occur. Basically, after a few quick calculations, we worked out that 150psi in the RC4 would equate to about 46lbs of preload (plus whatever the increase in force is from the decrease in chamber size as the shock compresses), which on its own would pretty much explain why the Cane Creek could run a 350lbs/in spring with more sag than the RC4 with a 300lbs/in spring keeping in mind that the air chamber would also have a significant air spring effect within the shock, in addition to the coil spring. Of course, every shock has this to some degree, but it is only the RC4 where Ive ever noticed it or found it so significant that I had to change the spring rate because of the air spring effect alone. The air effect also means that the shock doesnt feel sensitive at all right at the top of the stroke when pushing by hand, it takes a bit of force to overcome that kind of air preload not that this means a lot on the track. The DHX RC4 has separate external LSC/HSC adjusters, as well as a reservoir roughly the diameter of your thigh. Check clearance before purchasing! Photo: James Patterson Once the bike is actually into its stroke as per normal riding conditions though, the RC4 is very smooth. It doesnt have quite the same holy-shit factor of the BOS Stoy, or to a slightly lesser extent the Cane Creek, in terms of how free-moving and frictionless it is, but it does seem to be improved over the old DHX, and it is also free of the hesitation/sticking feeling between the compression and rebound strokes that can be felt in older DHXs, or Vivids when the compression is turned up. On the trail, the RC4 feels a bit more linear than the old DHX, mainly because it allows you to run a fair bit more low speed compression damping and use that to prevent the bike blowing through its travel, whereas by comparison the old DHX in stock guise didnt really let you run much low speed compression damping before it just became harsh. The separate high/low adjusters are handy here, though like with the fork, to get any significant LSC out of the shock, the high speed adjuster needed to be wound in close to full. Technical explanations aside, basically the RC4 lets you run more compression damping in order to control the bikes behaviour to suit your preferences, without becoming harsh like the old DHX was prone to doing. This means you can set the bike up to be more stable, more deadened, reduce kicking off lips, and so forth, than you could with the old DHX. Suspension good, cornering style bad! Photo: Tony Pincan However, again like the fork, the upper limit of the compression damping in LSC or HSC was not all that high at the 150psi chamber pressure certainly nowhere near as heavily damped as a Cane Creek can be, nor quite reaching the levels of compression damping that the BOS Stoy can achieve, but still with a bigger compression range than a Vivid, and certainly a more useful range than a DHX5.0. In fairness, I didnt actually run out of damping in the sense that I wanted/needed more, and being at the heavy end of the typical weight spectrum means that most riders should find the range very much usable depending of course on the leverage ratio of the bike. Increasing air pressure to bump up the overall range of compression damping may have increased the amount of damping available, but due to the time limitations of the review, this option wasnt fully explored. In any case, having that kind of overlap between compression adjusters means setup can be a bit complicated, but taking the simpler route as we did should net pretty well everyone a setup theyd like. Using the RC4 on particularly high-leverage bikes such as V10s may mean that they still feel quite lightly damped in compression, but this is speculation, and at any rate there is definitely more usable compression damping on tap than the stock DHX which many riders are happy with on such bikes anyway. As usual with Fox stuff, the rebound damping is great, offering a wide range with usable increments between clicks of the adjuster, and again having to be run surprisingly slow before any packing up becomes specifically noticeable. I dont believe there is any real reason to have quite as extreme a range as the RC4 has though not that it really matters if you know how you want your rebound, but there isnt much use for a rebound setting that literally shoots you out of the seat if you bounce on it, nor one where the shocks rebound time would be measured on a calendar. Anyway this is just nitpicking, to be fair the rebound damping is of Foxs usual high standard, and provided it wasn't set up in a silly manner, the rear wheel typically stayed on the ground and behaved in a predictable manner. Despite the added complexity with setup, I did like the adjustable bottom-out resistance on the RC4, which works in exactly the same manner as the old DHX. On the occasions where I did feel it bottoming out on heavy landings and the like, adding one turn of bottom-out resistance fixed the problem without doing anything undesirable like making the bike harsher elsewhere. As mentioned with the fork, I couldnt comment on reliability without owning the shock for quite a while, but rear shock reliability is something Fox have usually had pretty dialled in the past, and Id be surprised if this one bucked the trend speculation though. Fuente
Pues yo no me aclaro, un monopivote es un sistema muy lineal, supongo que necesitará más hidraulico, para evitar los topes, un B ó quizas mejor un C aunque no lo sirvan en España. Como decia Gerardrev para una 224 un C, para m3, v10 etc B creo yo¡
yo tengo intenciones de comprarme un vivid tune A,kon tuneado PUSH que lo convierte en 4 way,komo un ccdb,ya os contare aer que tal va...jej
no te creas...por ejemplo la ultima 224 que tuvimos, era durilla, y necesitabamos menos carga hidraulica, para hacerlo mas sensible, ya que no daba topes.
pues me acavo de enterar, como es un amortiguador que no lo hemos utilizado, ni los abia, y claro...cuando los pedimos para la tienda..no te preguntan ninguna opcion, y yo creo que siempre no han mandado el de menor carga hidraulica.
esque los distris son un poco cabestros, y supongo que te mandarian del setting que tubiesen mas stock...
pues seguro...aunke hemos pedido muchos, yo solo te hablo de los que hemos montado en nuestras bikes, k han sido 2, lo demas alomejor venian con otro setting.
Fausto, para la boxxer al parecer valen los muelles que lleva la travis, uno por aqui lo tenia puesto asi y le valio.
tengo una msc f3.0 y tengo un amortiguador manitour 6 way 240mm entre eje, y ahora quiero ponerle rock shox de medida 267mm, son solo 3cm + yo no tengo idea de nada y un amigo me dice que me ira mas lento si le pongo mas recorrido, quiero saber ventajas y desventajas de ponerle un amortiguador de 267mm. por la geometria si cabe no hay problema. es lo bueno del cuadro de la msc y su gran polivelencia de poder subir y bajarlo depende como uno quiera. gracias!!
ola childanidh yo tengo un rocco wc de 240mm praticamente nuevo,muy barato,si te interesa dimelo i lo hablamos,lo9 vendo por paso a vos,un saludo
ya e solventado todas mis dudas! me quedo con el que tengo lo mando a la casa y me lo dejan como deseo por 170€, si le pongo 267 quedaria la bici como un chicle y eso es malo para la aceleracion y si que podia meterle 267. puedo meterle hasta 300mm a la msc ^__^
