hola buenas, alguien me puede enviar un link o poner la tabla donde vengan las tensiones de radios de las ruedas de campagnolo, zonda,eurus... por mas que busco no encuentro, en otras marcas si vienen en su web como dt swiss, vision... muchas gracias buena ruta
Hola. Las tensiones recomendadas están entre 130-150 kg. En cualquier caso, la recomendación de Campagnolo es destensionar todos los radios para empezar a tensar todo de nuevo como si se empezara desde cero, siquiendo una sistemática a la que hay que intentar aproximarse lo máximo posible teniendo en cuenta que un aro usado tiene cierto grado de deformación por el desgaste aculumado que hace que no siempre se pueda alcanzar las mismas tensiones y el mismo equilibrado que cuando está recién fabricado y montado. Aquí te dejo un pequeño extracto de la sistemática de mantenimiento/montaje de ruedas Campagnolo, así como un enlace donde lo puedes ver un poco más gráficamente. Siento que esté en inglés. Espero que te sea útil: "Equipment-wise, apart from the tools to check and adjust the bearings and a jig and tensiometer (obviously), you will need a spoke holder and the deeper version Campag 6mm (older Euruses, the Campag 5.5 mm) spanner-type key. Avoid the older, shallow steel keys, long-term expereince has shown that they damage the nipples. You can't use an ordinary open ended wrench, the torques that need to be applied are too high and the wrench will open. We retire the Campag keys for this reason after every 5 wheels, as even these can and do stretch. Hold the spoke as close to the junction between the flat area and the round area as you can and make *sure* the holder is properly engaged - otherwise you can end up with spokes snapping or twisting like wrought-iron work! The nipples are thread-locked at the factory and will be hard to move - make sure you use the wrench "right way around" so that the jaws are not being spread by the torque applied. Normally our recommendation whether re-tensioning or simply replacing a spoke is to start from "zero" as it were - so, after checking the smoothness and accurate setting of the hub bearings, progressively and slowly take all of the tension out of the wheel, so that it stays as axially true during this process as possible, and try to assess whether the radially most displaced areas in the rim, when there is *just* tension on the spokes, are evenly placed and over the spoke groups. If the radius variation in the de-tensioned rim is around 1 - 1.5 mm and each "high" spot is over the middle of the spoke groups (as close as you can judge), leaving the spoke to nipple junction "dry" - so don't lubricate (though lube between the nipple and rim is allowable) - slowly use the gearside tension to bring the wheel round and true - don't worry too much at this stage about offset. Once you have the wheel to within +/-0.5 mm of axial true and +/-0.125 - 0.25 mm of radial true (it is variable because of the damage that occurs to a rim through wear and tear), then progressively and in small steps (we usually use 1/4 turn) remove tension equally from pairs on the g/s and add tension in the corresponding ng/s spokes (again progressively, around 1/3 turn) to correct the offset so that the total tension in the group does not change. This avoids over-tensioning of any area(s) of the rim and permanent damage to the rim. Once you are within +/-0.25 mm of correct offset, fine tune the tensions to bring the wheel as round and true as you can. Always release tension before you add it. Try to keep the global tension the same. Pairs of g/s spokes are effectively working as one spoke and should have as close to equal tension as you can maintain. This is exactly the process used at the factory and the process we use at the Main UK SC. It is a fairly painstaking process but correctly followed, it works and results in a round, true, accurately tensioned wheel. Tolerances we ideally try to adhere to are the same as the factory, so for Shamal and Eurus, axial +/-0.125 mm, radial +/- 0.15 mm although with aused rim, with wear and tear on the braking surface and so on, we can't always hit these numbers but we get as close as we can. Once complete, post-apply Loctite 290 to the spoke-nipple junction and spin the wheel in the jig to help it into the threads and to lock the nipples. If in the de-tensioned wheel, the "high" and "low" spots are grossly at variance with the description above, the rim may be scrap We do get a number where spoke replacements have been badly carried out that we need to bin. If you are in any doubt, the best thing is to return the wheel to us at the main SC and we can at least advise the viability of repair and undertake for you if you wish. Errors are expensive with Shamal and Eurus (though not *as bad* as with Bora!). Fronts use 120-140 kgf and are, by comparison, a simple build like any radial wheel. Again, spoke to nipple junctions should be dry, Loctite 290 post build. HTH Graeme Velotech Cycling Ltd Main Campagnolo SC UK" Manual de mantenimiento ruedas Campagnolo PDF Saludos.
Un placer. Para eso estamos. Lo importante es que te sea de utilidad y espero que así sea. Un saludo.
Te cito solamente para matizarte que las tensiones recomendadas son: 120-140 kg para radiados delanteros. 130-150 kg para radiados traseros. Un saludo.
