Hola chicos, en Almaproin me han vendido las juntas de las cámaras positivas (24mm) en color verde, que son las que tenían 5€ cada sabeis si afecta en algo respecto a las azules originales?
Hola STS, El color indica el material, pero solo si mantienes el fabricante. Como no tenemos ni idea de cual es el fabricante original, ni cuál el nuevo, pues no sabemos a ciencia cierta que cambios comporta el cambio de color. Tengo un post mas arriba que habla de todo esto. En cualquier caso, yo creo que las originales tienen que ser las de menor friccion, pero es solo una opinion. Tengo tambien otro post en el que aconsejo calentar las juntas a 100ºC durante 3 minutos (en agua hirviendo) para que sean más maleables, especialmente si son las de 24mm porque entran muy justas. Tambien engrasar el piston para que la junta entre suave. Las mias eran muy duras y me costó mucho, incluso doblé un poco una al ponerla, cosa que no es buena. Pero una vez montado me va de perlas, asi que no te preocupes. Tambien he visto en instrucciones de fabricantes que es bueno conformar la junta de nuevo una vez montada, porque es facil que se alargue un poco durante el montaje. Para hacerlo, se puede envolver con papel unas cuantas vueltas, y poner una abrazadera por fuera para comprimir la junta un poco. El papel seria para que la abrazadera no marcara el plastico. Yo no hice nada de esto, porque lo vi mas tarde. Per creo que puede ser bueno. Suerte y ya nos contarás! Por cierto... Lo que más me flipa de Almaproin es que no saben ni lo que tienen. Yo les llame ochenta veces hace un mes para las juntas de 24mm y me dijeron que no tenian... en fin!! J
Jajaja es verdad Hasta que no le dije que era para una bici no saco una caja que ponía amortiguadores de bicicletas Tenían de 24 y 25 e incluyen la torica interior y todo Todas en verde eso si
yo también me subscribo al post, tengo que reparar mi equalizer 2 y para ello me están fabricando las herramientas en un taller mecánico de aluminios.
Who can help me? I do not speak Spanish. Translating with Google is a catastrophe. My Equalizer 2 (Scott Genius 2010) needs a service. The piston rod is completely extended. Is it possible to solve the problem without disassambling the whole shock?
Hi genius3010, welcome to our forum! You could indeed solve your problem temporarily without disassembling. You need to: 1. remove oil 2. reposition your pistons 3. refill 4. bleed You could also, possibly, do with just steps 2-3-4 and profit the old oil, although I do not really recommend it. You have instructions in this forum for this. The best point to start is page 1, as there are some summaries made. I have translated (and greatly adapted) the methods to English; see below. The bleeding ports are two small valves that are just close to the entry point of the control cable. They need a special tool that you can make with a 3mm metal rod, by cutting a small line diametrally with a metal saw (really easy, just look at the two port screws and you will see what I mean). These ports are valves: once you remove the screws, you also need to remove a couple of tiny springs, and a couple of tiny rods which constitute the valve. Then you can add oil and bleed air from the ports. The other material you need is pretty basic: you need a syringe and a bit of patience. And suspension oil, SAE-5. The method works fine, but it is likely that you need to repeat it after some months. If this is too annoying, then you will need to replace the joints, which obliges you to disassemble the shock. Good luck! J BLEEDING METHOD (one possible method) 1. Remove the shock from the bike. Detach the control cable. 2. Fix the shock on a bench so that the cable port is facing up. 3. Completely remove the air from both chambers. Take some time to release pressure so as to be sure there is no pressure inside. You can move the piston up and down and repeat the process before going on. 4. Open the rebound regulators to the maximum (number 12) 5. Push the main shock piston to its fully retailed position (fully pushed), until the rubber stopper touches the shock body. Release all air pressure in this piston position! 6. Open the two valves close to the cable entry point. Remove the inner valves with the springs. In total, 2 screws, 2 springs, 2 valves. They are tiny, be careful. 7. (This point is optional, though recommended, if you want to remove all oil and replace it) Remove the shock from the bench. Pour all oil by putting it face down and move the piston so that all oil comes out. You can also remove the cable entry point (with a peace of cloth and pliers), and remove the control piston. This gives you a larger port for pouring oil. Reassemble the control piston (you better have changed the 5 o-rings by new NBR, 6x1,5mm o-rings!!) and cable entry port. Eventually clean the shock to continue working. Re-fix the shock to the bench. 8. Put some pressure to the positive chambers (these are the two small chambers) until you hear (one or two) 'pop' noises indicating that the two pistons in the small chambers are at their limit. These pistons are free-running, you cannot move them manually, just by applying pressure. Then, fully release the pressure from the positive chambers. Repeat point 7 to remove oil that may have passed to the negative chamber (the big chamber). 9. With a 20ml syringe, and some small adaptor you can put at the tip, insert oil to the shock via one of the two valve ports. 10. When fully filled, oil will start coming out from the other port. 11. Bleed the air by giving some small touches to the shock body laterally with a rubber hammer. You may also move the shock a bit so that the air comes up and approaches the bleeding ports. 12. You can pull and push on the syringe to make sure no air comes out. Only when you are sure no air is inside, proceed to next steps. 13. Remove the syringe. 14. Insert valve, spring, and screw to the two bleeding ports. Close both ports. 15. Fully actuate the main piston to make sure it moves correctly. To do so, you may need to keep the air valves open -- either remove their inner parts of the valve with a schrader tool (available on eBay, etc.), or have someone help you keeping them open while you move the piston. 16. Before going on, I found it useful to repeat steps 11--15. The reason is, after fully moving the piston, you may have released air that was trapped somewhere and you could not bleed the first time. Only when you are sure there is no air inside, proceed to next point. 17. Pump some 5 bar to the positive chamber to reposition the two pistons to the limit. Release the pressure. 18. Re-open one port. Add 3ml more oil, by making some pressure with the syringe. You should make sure the oil goes INSIDE the shock, and not all over the place. For this, the tip adaptor should be so that you can make a tight connection with no losses (some elastic tube from silicone may help). These 3ml extra oil make sure that the shock is still making some pressure at the end of the piston travel, and so that the main piston is going to be fully retailed when you jump out of your bike. Close the port. 19. Clean and degrease carefully with your favourite product (dish detergent, or isopropyl alcohol). 20. Give pressure to the positive chamber, to 10 bar. 21. Give pressure to the negative chamber. After reaching 10 bar, the piston should start pulling out. 22. Release pressure from the negative chamber. The piston should retail fully. 23. If you passed test 22, you probably have succeeded. Congratulations! 24. Pump pressure to the positive chamber to your pressure (look at the charts for your pressure. I have 22 bar). 25. Pump into the negative chamber until your pressure (look at the charts for your pressure. I have 17.6 bar). 26. Mount on the bike. Connect the cable. Ride on!
Hi guys, someone can made for me home made tools to service equalizer 2? I try to made it without success. Exscuse me but i don t speak spanish. Mp if you can help me tnx!
Sorry I made ones but very amateur to sell its. Try to make some good ones with steel screw, otherwise you will have to look for a metal worker... Lo siento lo mios son demasiado chungos para venderlos, intenta hacer unos con tornillos de acero, si no tendras que buscar un tornero.
Naranzeta is right. You can also 3D print them. I posted some drawings in page 15. The STL files, if you remove the .pdf extension, are ready for the printer! Once they com out of the printer, you insert 2,5mm INOX rods to 3 of the holes, and you are ready. The drawings are for the small chambers only, as I made the large one by hand (and mostly unsuccessful, although it works). You will need to create drawings for the large chamber key also, in the same spirit. J
Pues yo de momento bien, aunque a veces me queda el vastago 1mm fuera. Creo que se debe a les 3ml extra de aceite que debi poner mal, no se. Por 1mm, no lo abro otra vez!
Hola Enedio, ya lo he montado y he resuelto el problema, todo ok, muchas gracias a todos por vuestro aporte. fantastico
Hello, I am from uk and my spanish is not great. This page has been great lots of useful information thankyou. I have an EQ3, from what I figured out reading this you have found upgraded seals from standard ones. If this is the case would someone be kind enough to provide links to the seals that are needed. Twice I have had oil bleed into my air chambers now . once resulted in a pretty nasty accident with crank hitting the floor and throwing me off the bike Thankyou for your time
Hi Woots, In page 15 in this forum you have plenty of explanations in Spanish. The important thing is that the seals are standard piston Seals, 24mm for the small chambers (positive), 35mm for the large chamber (negative). I found different manufacturers with the same seals: Small chamber [mm] : 024,0 x 016,5 x 03,20 (OD x ID x width) ref. ARTIC SEALS: PSO 0240 0165 032 CN ( serie PSO) // NOT GOOD ref. TRELLEBORG: PG4400240-M12N ref. INTERSEAL: 0240-55 ( serie ISP) Big chamber [mm] : 035,0 x 027,5 x 03,20 ref. ARTIC SEALS: PSO 0350 0275 032 CN ( serie PSO) // NOT GOOD ref. TRELLEBORG: PG4400350-M12N ref. INTERSEAL: 0350-55 ( serie ISP) where ARTIC SEALS is not a good option because they have a different design (long to explain here). Look at Trelleborg catalog online, and locate your seal using the dimensions Bore diameter(OD), groove diameter (ID) and groove width (width). Print the page with the seal drawing and dimensions. Then go to a shop for hydraulics and pistons (do some research in your area). Once you find one, explain them it is for a bike, so ask for the seal material with the lowest friction, in case you have options. If you only are given one option, then take it. The seal can be from a different manufacturer, not necessarily Trelleborg. The dimensions are ISO standards. Two notes: EQ3 comes with a quadring seal in the large chamber instead of piston seal. If the nylon spacer is not damaged, you can put a quadring seal and a O-ring there, Quadring: Tipo LR4, 29,82 x 2,62 O-ring: 26 x 2 mm. Sold separately. with the advantage of a cheaper price. If the nylon spacer ring is damaged, then you can remove quadring, oring and spacer, and install the 35mm piston seal above, because the groove has exactly the same dimensions. Some manufacturers do not have the 24mm seal. Some people in the forum used a 25mm seal and it worked too. Please read assembly instructions, available in the catalogs, for a proper assembly of the seal. Good luck J
Gracias a vuestras instrucciones he conseguido reparar un equalizer 2. La junta de pistón de 24 me la hicieron en ecojuntas, que tienen posibilidad de fabricarlas a medida
Sweet, thankyou. that makes perfect sense with seal sizes. lets hope they last a little longer than the originals.
This is worth a read if you are able to translate it. http://blueliquidlabs.com/suspension/equalizer-shock-upgrade/#comment-364
