Problema en rueda trasera Mavic Ksyrium Elite ( Ruido MUY molesto)

Pues yo engrase y aunque en la foto parece que tiene holgura en realidad no tiene, es el color que ha cambiado.
Llevo mas de 1000kms y cero ruidos.

 

Pues me he liado la manta a la cabeza, no lo había hecho nunca y no me creía capacitado pero he desmontado el núcleo, lo he limpiado y engrasado, veremos haber pero de momento ahora dando vueltas en casa en vacío se ha quedado casi muda la rueda, Va fina, fina.

 

Yo voy a usar los casquillos de teflon de este vendedor de ebay: http://www.ebay.es/sch/john5w76/m.html?item=261587824257&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562, tiene dos medidas uno normal y otro mas dimensionado (0,003"), este ultimo me ha dicho que es para ruedas muy cascadas...

Os paso el procedimiento de sustitucion que me ha enviado:




Start by removing the rear wheel from the bike.
You can remove the cassette for an easier installation, but it is not necessary.

On the non cassette side of the hub remove the very outside part where the skewer would normally slide through. It may be necessary to grab the nub that normally would drop into you frame with a pair of pliers and wiggle it while pulling outward. If it is still being stubborn you may have to grab a bit further back with your pliers for better leverage. If you do this, first put something between the pliers and hub surface to prevent scratching it, as you can still see this part once installed. Also what seems to work well is to grab the end to prevent it from turning and use an allen wrench on the cassette side where the skewer normally slides through to hold it so you can twist the end back and forth.

With the end removed clear off a large working area so as not to lose any parts while taking the rest of it apart.

Insert a very large allen wrench inside the end you just removed, on the opposite side use an allen wrench where the skewer is supposed to go through (6mm on most hubs). Lay the wheel down with the freehub/cassette body facing up. Unscrew it by turning it counter clockwise and then remove it completely.

Now CAREFULLY and SLOWLY remove the freehub by pulling gently while turning back and forth. Once it gets past the pawls it will slide right off. When it is coming off, it is best to cup your hands around the bottom of the freehub to prevent a spring or pawl from getting away from you. (usually doesn’t happen but can.) Pull it off completely and clean it up using rags or any kind of parts cleaner or solvent. Total parts should be 2 pawls, 2 springs that are usually attached to the pawls and 1-2 washers that act as spacers, and a rubber dirt seal that is still on the hub.

As you can see, the part you removed contains the bushing you wish to replace. The easiest way to get the old one out is to take a hook shaped pick and pry at the bottom of one side while using the opposite side as pivot point for good leverage. It is easy to get the pick under the old bushing and then pry it right out. If you don’t have a pick set you can also use a razor and CAREFULLY cut the bushing in several places causing it to break apart when you use a screwdriver in the same fashion as i just described to you with the pick. Or just using hammer, and a chisel or a screwdriver you can split the old one by tapping it.

Once its removed clean the surface very well and make sure all of the old bushing is completely removed! Take the new bushing and shove it down till the lip is contacts the hub. Now take something that’s round and flat on the bottom and smaller then the outside lip of the freehub (large socket works great) , place it on the bushing and push on it hard. You will hear it snap in.

Now take a flat screwdriver and push in at least 8 places around the outside of the bushing right next to the to the lip of the freehub. This just makes sure that the bushing is completely snapped under the lip of the freehub. Once snapped in do not try and remove it!! It will damage the new bushing.

Make sure the old pawls are cleaned up and in place. They sit on a round pin and must be installed right to work. The pawl springs have a slight indention in the hub they have to be in, or the pawl will not move back far enough to clear the bushing. While pushing them in, the pawl should be level with the hub or slightly below, if its not, check the spring to make sure its installed right.

Put 12-18 drops of mineral oil into the free hub and spin it around to get everything coated . Set the 1 or 2 spacer washers on top of the bearing in the hub. Press the pawls inward and slide the freehub down over the top of them. It should slide over very easily, if it doesn’t recheck the pawls and springs to make sure they are right. Once slid over it should drop all the way down. Rotate the freewheel and make sure the pawls are clicking smoothly and engaging . Install the bolt slightly snug and rotate the freehub again to make sure it spins very easy and still clicks and engages. Tighten the bolt to 12ft lb, which equates to pulling pretty hard with an 5" long allen wrench. With the cassette installed it should spin several times around with a good spin and should engage firmly and click crisply.

Troubleshooting: If it doest click when the freehub is set on, lift it slightly and see if it starts to click when turning it. If it does, make sure you put all of the spacer washers back in. If it doesn’t, remove the freehub by pulling it off lightly while turning it back and forth. Check the pawls and springs for proper installation.

Put end cap back on with a skim coat of lube or grease. Install the wheel and have fun I would recommend a hub service every 200 miles with off road use, 350 for highway use. If you ride in the water like small stream crossings, or while raining, or in very harsh sandy conditions, i would service every 100 miles to keep everything clean. If you submerge the rear completely, i would service after you get done riding. These are pretty much the same maintenance intervals that crossmax recommends.

 

Pues ya esta cambiado el casquillo.

El casquillo enviado tiene una apariencia cutrilla..muy artesanal...pero se ajusta perfectamente y ha desaparecido la holgura. Asi que nada que objetar y en 15 dias lo he recibido.

La sustitución es muy sencilla...con un destornillador plano y martillo se le dan golpecillos por el lado del rodamiento hasta que sale el casquillo viejo. Se mete a presion con los dedos y listo.

100% aconsejable.

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Edito el post, despues de siete meses, las holguras vuelven a aparecer, asi que he pedido el kit de hubdoctor, con el rodamiento, y lo he instalado...

cero holguras!!!, eso si no lime el eje porque entraba justo, y ahora no sale...supongo que para la próxima me tocara darle martillazos por la parte de dentro de los piñones para que salga el nucleo.

 

Vaya tela con las llantas top de mavic...

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Alguna novedad? O es solución definítiva

Si muero nunca dejéis que mi mujer venda la bici por lo que le dije que me costó

 

Por mi experiencia el kit de hub doctor es la solución definitiva ya que no hay ningún desgaste al sustituir el teflon por rodamientos.

 

Yo desmonte todo, limpie, ajuste, aceite, no grasa y solucionado

 

Mavic crossone... holgura brutal en el nucleo, tanta que fallaban hasta los trinquetes... he cambiado el anillo de teflon de las narices y nanai de la china... hartisimo de la basura de ruedas Mavic las he mandado al carajo
Mavic Cosmic Elite...sin holgura pero ruido brutal a ratos, aproveche el casquillo que pedi para las crossone y probe a cambiarlo...nanai de la china...limpiezas, engrases, otro engrase....Que jartito que estoy!!!!
Mavic never more!
Me planteo el kit de doctorhub... pero era para denunciar todos a Mavic por semejante basura de sistema.

 

EL mismo ruido tuve yo,tras un par de engrases mandé las ruedas a tomar por culo

 

en mi caso el kit hubdoctor ha solucionado la holgura, con el kit compre también los trinquetes, y ahora llevo ruedas nuevas...

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una pregunta, estos problemas del nucleo es en todas las ruedas mavic?
Las ksirium PRO tambien sufren este problema?

 

Pues supongo que si, como ves, pasa en varios modelos, las Cosmic, las Ksirium. Yo con el engrase se solucionó el problema, y llevo ya bastantes kms sin ruidos. Al final es un tema de mantenimiento del núcleo, si se deja abandonado coge holgura y entonces no hay remedio.

 

solo las ruedas mavic que llevan nucleos fts-l o fts-x...

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La mayoría llevan esos nucleos.

 

Refloto el hilo chicos. A mis cosmic les ha surgido el mismo problema y estoy decidido a pillarme el kit de ebay. La duda que tengo es cual seria el kit para mi rueda, ya que veo que hay varios. No sabria deciros el año de la rueda ya que son de segunda pata, no se si sera un dato clave. Son unas cosmic diria de 2011 o 2012
Gracias!!!!

 

Has probado a limpiar y lubricar? A mi con eso se soluciono el problema sin tener que comprar el kit.

 

hubdoctor solo hay un kit, los otros kits con el casquillo teflon hay dos medidas, dependiendo de como este de gastado...pero yo te recomiendo el rodamiento...es para toda la vida...

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de momento eso hare, pero segun leo en el hilo varios compis despues de limpiar y engrasar siguieron con el problema...
gracias!